Hybrid Lashes have seen a rise in popularity over the past few years; all thanks to our Hollywood super stars. There’s no doubt that stars like the Kardashians have given this lashing trend the popularity boost it deserved. In this post we will dive deep, very deep, into all things hybrid lash extensions, and leave you ready to take on those red carpet inspired clients in no time. This article contains lash maps for 3 popular hybrid styles, 2 instructional videos, below, for the application techniques, and a comprehensive guide to hybrid lash extensions.
Have you ever had a client come into your studio asking for “wispy, natural volume or spikey” lash extensions? When you hear those words, hybrid lash extensions should be your go to. These looks all require you to have texture and length differences throughout your set and a hybrid full set can give you just that! This lashing style gives you the best of both worlds, allowing your clients to have a denser look than what their natural lash will offer, while enhancing their own natural beauty.
Hybrid lashes give your clients the “messy” natural appearance with less of a uniformed outcome. Let’s jump into the details of exactly how to get those lashes that are sure to give your clients their well deserved 15 minutes of fame.
What are Hybrid Eyelash Extensions?
Hybrid Lashes are the combination of Classic and Volume Lash Extensions. Depending on the look your specific client is going for, you’ll want to place anywhere from 30% to 50% Volume Lash Extensions. The great thing about these combination lashes are that they provide the ability for you to tailor the look for exactly what your client is asking for.
If your client is asking for a natural or wispy looking set, you’ll want to opt for a heavier percentage of lashes being classic lash extensions, vs if your client is wanting a dense or dramatic lash set you’ll want to be reaching for those Volume Lashes more often.
Combining Classic and Volume Extensions
Before you can perfect your hybrid style, you’ll need to fully understand how to do each lashing technique so that you can combine them for a beautiful textured full set. You’ll always want to ensure that you properly understand how to do each step, so that you are giving your clients the best end result possible. Here we’ll dive into the two lashing styles you’ll need to first be trained on before you can start creating your hybrid masterpieces.
Classic Vs Volume Vs Hybrid
Classic lashes are the application of one lash extension to one natural lash. This method is also known as the 1:1 method. This style gives your clients extra length and a deeper more dramatic color if you opt to use a black lash extension; this can be particularly helpful for clients that have short or light colored lashes. This style is the most natural out of the three techniques and offers your clients just a bit of “umph” without going overboard or looking like they have extended lashes.
As for thickness with classic lashes, you’ll want to stay around 0.15 and under, to ensure the natural lash stays healthy and not weighed down. This will not only help keep those natural lashes strong, but also help with retention as well. I love to reach for these classic lashes, as they are a deep black and come in a variety of lengths and curls to help further your customization.
You can expect to spend anywhere from 1.5 hours to 2 hours from start to finish on a full set of classic lashes. If your clients have dense natural lashes and are wanting effortless beauty, opt for this timeless technique.
Volume lash extensions are the application of multiple extensions to one natural lash. Depending on the thickness of the desired set you can choose to create a 2D fan (meaning you place two extensions on one natural lash) 3D fan, 4D fan, etc. This method takes a bit more practice as you’ll have to learn how to create volume fans using different amounts of lashes as well as different lash thicknesses. The more lashes you’re using in a fan the smaller the lash thickness you’ll want to use. Opt for a lighter fan by using 0.02-0.07 mm weights to ensure no natural lashes are weighed down. By keeping the more dramatic fans small in thickness you are ensuring your clients still get a glamorous final result, as well as keeping their natural lashes strong and healthy.
For the volume method you can expect to spend anywhere from 2-3 hours to complete a beautiful full set.
It’s important to understand how different lash extension thicknesses can effect your clients natural lash. As the professional, it’s our job to keep our clients lashes safe and in tip top shape. To help you understand how thick of a lash extension you should grab for with your specific client, I’ve created a table (below) that allows you to choose the perfect classic lash thickness, and then convert that into the ideal fan thickness for the amount of lashes you’re aiming to use per fan. This table is quick and oh-so simple to use. Check it out below!
Hybrid lashes are a beautiful blend of classic and volume lashes. Hybrid extensions are generally a 70% classic to 30% volume lash extention mixture, though this ratio is not concrete and can easily be structured to fit your clients specific wants. For example, if your client is asking for a textured dense final result you may want to add in more volume lashes making the ratio closer to 20% classics and 80% volumes or you can also opt to use more lashes in each individual fan and create up to 10D fans. If you decide to go for the latter option, be sure to use a smaller thickness fan like GladGirl Signature Mink 0.03mm lashes.
On the flip side, if your client is asking for a wispy or natural hybrid set, opt for a ratio that leans heavier on the classic side. Anywhere between 65%-80% classics will do the trick, and leave those volumes primarily for the “spiked” or “textured” parts of the set. You can also use 2D and 3D fans with a thickness of around 0.05 – 0.07 mm, like these simple to use rapid fanning lashes.
With this method, be sure to block out between 1.5-3 hours depending on how natural or dense your client is wanting the final outcome to be.
Hybrid Full Set Preparation
The key to any good full set of hybrid lashes is client consultation and prep. Before you place that first lash, be sure you have a thorough consultation with your client so you both are on the same page about realistic expectations and the at-home maintenance that goes into having red carpet ready lashes. To help with this process, asking your clients to show photos of the look they want to achieve can be helpful as the final outcome isn’t up for interpretation. This can also be a great time to point out differences in eye shape or natural lash density that may affect the final result.
After you’ve agreed on a mapping style for your full set you’ll want to be sure to give your work the best chance of retention by properly prepping your clients natural lashes. You can do this by thoroughly washing your clients lashes beforehand with a lash safe soap like Wash and Wink Eyelash Shampoo.
After properly cleaning the natural lash, I like to add insurance to my work by adding in a primer. My go to primer is GladGirl Eyelash Pre Application Primer, as this primer helps remove any oil or build up that the wash may have left behind, ensuring that you have the cleanest canvas possible.
Hybrid Application Tips
Though the thought of hybrids may be a bit overwhelming, the application method is far from it. There are little to no differences between hybrid, volume and classic applications, other than deciding where to place your fans vs your classic extensions. This process is entirely based on the lash mapping and final style you are trying to achieve. Below I’ll go over a few of the most highly requested hybrid lash mapping styles and the difference in application with each one.
For this application, you’ll want to be extra cautious of stickies, as you may find that working too fast in one section can be a recipe for a lash disaster. To prevent this, I tend to work by isolating a lash in the inner corner followed by the middle and the outer corner to allow ample time for drying.
Another technique I tend to lean towards is to isolate one lash on the right eye and then move to place one lash on the left and repeat. I find this method can help you pace yourself, as when I was first beginning I would spend too much time on one eye and be left with little to no time to complete the other eye. This is also a great insurance incase an emergency happens and your client needs to leave in the middle of the set, as the set may be sparse, but both eyes will have equal amounts of lashes on them.
Hybrid Mapping Guides and Videos
Wispy or Spiked Hybrid Lashes Map and Video
This mapping style is also known as the “textured” or “spiked” map. If your client is requesting a strip lash look, this is the mapping guide I recommend you reach for.
For this style, I like to keep my application around 70% classic to 30% volume lashes, as you want the volume fans to be the spikes in this set. I tend to place my spiked points first with fans that have tightly packed “v” rather than a fanned out appearance. This will give the illusion of spikes as these fans will jet out from the set while the lashes around them are shorter.
This is a great mapping style to use for a messy look and can be customized to your client depending on if they want dramatic spikes or subtle peaks. This can all be achieved by changing your fan lengths and the amount of spikes you place throughout the set. The shorter the fan length, the more subtle the final outcome will be.
Doll Eye Hybrid Lashes Map and Video
This mapping style also goes by the “open” or “wide eye” style. This map is perfect for those clients who are looking to open up their eyes and create an illusion of a rounder more awake eye.
I prefer to use this map with the majority of my clients as I find it works with most eye shapes and is ultra flattering. As for classic vs volume ratio this mapping style is one of the most versatile mappings as you can make it as dense or natural as the final result demands. As a general rule of thumb, I normally keep my ratio somewhere between 50% classic to 50% volume and 70% classic 30% volume.
As for the shape of the fans, for this style you want to keep your fans wide as they will cover more space and crisscross each other to create the perfect blend between the classic and volume lashes. As for placement, this set can be created just like any classic or volume set would. You are free to jump back and forth from eye to eye or section to section. Just remember to switch the eye or section you’re working with frequently to give the lashes time to dry.
Cat Eye Hybrid Lashes Map
This mapping style is one of my most requested styles, and is a great pick for a client who wants to lift the outer eye and give the illusion of a smoked out glamorous look. You’ll want to steer clear of this style if your client has a smaller shaped eye, as it will close the eye off even more, as well as if your client has a hooded eye in the outer corner as the lashes can get hidden under the eyelid.
Again, the ratio for this mapping is customizable, though I recommend keeping the very outer corner lashes classic extensions as volumes can weigh down the fragile outer corners giving you a turned down look, or leaving you with no lash extensions on the outer edge as the weight of the volumes can cause them to prematurely shed.
If your client tends to wear a winged eyeliner, consider this mapping as it will enhance the liner and create a beautiful appearance that your client is bound to fall in love with.
Keep an eye out for my upcoming Wednesday Wink which will feature a hybrid cat eye tutorial!
Pre-Made Fans and Hybrid Lash Extensions
Pre-made volume lash extensions are the holy grail of fast yet effective lashing. Pre-made fans are volume fans that come fanned and ready to place on your clients natural lash. GladGirl offers a range of curls, lengths, thicknesses and amount of lashes per fan, as well as on strip and loose fans. These fans are great as you can customize the set based on your clients preferences, without needing to take the extra time to make the fan by hand. I always reach for my tried and true 10D Pre-Made Fans as these fans give a beautiful fluffy effect, while the bases are thin and don’t weigh down the natural lash.
Using pre-made fans can be a great option for you if you’re still perfecting your hand made fans, but your clients would like to try out hybrid or volume lash extensions. I also tend to use this lash extension option if my clients are in a rush but still want a full and fluffy set.
By using pre-made fans you can achieve the same uniformed final set, while cutting back significantly on your lashing times. As for placement, these fans can be placed directly on top or under the natural lash, just like you would place a classic lash extension.
Lash Extension Aftercare
“How long do hybrid lash extensions last?” I get this question often and the amazing thing with hybrids is that they can last just as long as classic or volume lash extensions if properly applied and maintained at home.
You can expect this technique to last your clients anywhere from 2-3.5 weeks, though any longer than that can cause the need for a full new set as the natural lash growth can cause twisting and closed off fans if the extension is not removed and replaced with a fresh one. This is a great point to make to any clients that may want to push their appointments to the last possible second. Let them know that proper maintenance involves in-fills every 2-3 weeks.
This is also the perfect time to teach your clients about proper at home care to keep those lashes clean and healthy between appointments. I love to recommend a lash extension safe shampoo like Wash and Wink as well as a makeup remover specially designed for eyelash extensions, to ensure that no oil, dirt or makeup is left over on the lashes at the end of the day. This will help with keeping the fans open as well as prevent any lash damage from heavy oil buildup.
Believe the Hype
Hybrid lashes are well worth the hype that has surrounded them in the past few years. This technique can be the perfect staple to offer in your salon to take your sets to that movie star like status. Hybrid lashes are a great option if you’re looking to slowly start offering volume lashes, as this method doesn’t demand a full set of only volume fans.
This is also a fantastic option to raise your income as you’ll want to price your hybrids somewhere in between your classic and volume prices (price your hybrid full sets on the lower end for natural looks and on the higher end for dense and glamorous looks) To help determine pricing you may also want to pay attention to the amount of time you’re spending on each mapping style, and calculate your hourly wage.
Offering hybrid eyelash extensions allows you to give your clients a fully customizable look and leaves little that you can’t re-create. Do you have a favorite lashing map for hybrids or do you like to switch it up from time to time? If you haven’t tried Hybrid Lash Extensions be sure to give them a try and let us know in the comments below just how game changing they are.
Until next time,